One way to judge whether any product works is to read consumer reviews. Individual reviews will of course, only reflect one person’s skin reaction to one particular product – and their expectations coupled with how much they paid. A better indicator is mass trials, like those found in popular newspapers and magazines. One survey worth mentioning is the amazing results of the UK’s Daily Mirror Beauty awards, in 2009 (1). Their number one mass market eye cream was astonishingly, a super cheap supermarket brand (Tescos Derma+). Reviewers liked its cool sensation and in blind tests, thought it was a higher end product retailing at around £20 (around $13) – it sold for £2 (around $3) a tube. Next was a paraben free product retailing at £8.99, (around $12.50) again, not a high end product and then there was the jaw dropper of the lot. Readers in the UK will be familiar with Aldi – a store so cheap, none of its brands are remotely recognisable, where for years you had to pay in cash only and it among the first to charge for grocery bags. A little like the runaway fast fashion story of the UK’s Primark, which has won awards for its fashion, most of which retails for under £10 (around $6-7), scarily regardless of the garment type, Aldi’s own brand £1.59 (around $2) anti aging eye cream scooped the third prize. A word of caution though from America’s ‘cosmetics cop’ Paula Begoun, on the cooling effects of creams.

Paula busts the myth that any cream, lotion or other product that causes tingling or cooling sensations is working effectively. Instead, she characterises the skin producing those sensations in reaction to the cream as a local irritant.

Paula echoes Giselle Mir, founder of Mir cosmetic line, in saying that over time irritation is ultimately damaging to skin and produces more markedly aged looking skin. Which is precisely the opposite of what those eye creams were sold to do. Another revelation from Paula is that we may all be getting sold hokum buying separate eye products. Paula reckons that if a face cream is of good enough quality, it should be safe and effective to use on the skin around the eyes. She feels that consumers are simply paying too much by purchasing separate eye area skin care products.

One ingredient touted as the answer to dark circles under the eyes is haloxyl™, a chemical compound patented by the Sederma company. It is advertised with a variety of opinion as to what it is it actually does. It is described as something that loosens and then eliminates darker blood pigments, and in some reviews, it even absorbs such pigments. The skin under the eyes is thin, which explains why you can see blood pigmentation there. It’s listed on sale as water, glycerin, steareth-20, N-hydroxysuccinimide, chrysin, palmitoyl Oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 – yes, a whole bunch of chemicals. It is worth noting hydroxysuccinimide, may act as an irritant. Brands using haloxyl™ include ‘Elite Serum’ (which we’ll come to in later, RRP $99/ around £62) , ‘Skindoctors’ (around £32.95/ around $50+), ‘Serious Skin Care Hi Bright’ (around $32.95/ around £20), and ‘Purity Dark Circles’ (around $32.95 / around £20). Again and again, resellers promote Sederma’s stated research of a 19 – 45% reduction in dark circles and puffiness in tests. What’s interesting about this product is its easy to buy as an isolated ‘active ingredient’, which does raise the question of consumers trying to save a few bucks with home chemistry –for a product that’s going near the eyes! Not recommended without professional training, to say the least.

Another patented product being bandied about is ‘Eyeliss™’, made by the same company. This compound also claims to be able to reduce dark circles and puffiness under the eyes. ‘Eyeliss™’ apparently contains something along the lines of water, glycerine, hesperidin methyl chalcone, steareth-20, dipeptide-2, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Both ‘Eyeliss™’ and ‘Haloxyl™’ are using “peptide technology” – but what exactly does that mean? According to Drs. Dahen and Gruenwald, writing for a company selling them, peptides are short chain proteins which in essence, are used to programme skin cells to behave in certain ways (2). Within anti wrinkle formulations, peptides will typically aim to make maturing skin produce more collagen, the elastic fibre that keeps skin young looking. Aging skin produces less collagen as the years go by, so this would seem a desirable effect. The “technology” term is being used to describe the way peptides, short chain proteins, are synthesised to produce specific, local effects. Within eye creams, acetyl-tetrapeptide is being touted as having an effect on lymphatic flow, with a corresponding reduction in edema – meaning puffiness (2).
Which brings us to the ‘Elite Eye serum’.

It’s made by Sederma, and voted best eye product for dark circles and puffy eyes on www.eyeserum.com. Interestingly, its not quite possible to see which company runs that site when you visit it, and its glowing endorsement features prominently on the webpage for Sederma’s ‘Elite Serum’. Its also apparently been featured on Oprah, CNN, Dr Phil, and bizarrely, the food network, which appears to be about, well, food. The serum contains both ‘Haloxyl™’ and ‘Eyeliss™’, which it is claimed in tandem enhance the reduction of local undereye edema (puffiness). There is also ‘Argireline®’. This is an Acetyl (Hexa-) peptide. The serum also contains hyaluronic acid, which has been used for many years in higher end moisturisers. The website proudly displays this ABC television video on the wonders of hyaluronic acid:

Its worth noting that even the glowing ABC film makes reference to the holistic lifestyle of the healthy, smooth skinned octogenarians featured in the Japanese village, including their diet and lifestyle! Although Japanese manufacturers appear to be selling extracted hyaluronic acid in pill form, it may be that scientists are still discovering why it appears to exert some protective effects. Advocates of traditional medicines, such as herbalists, often take pains to point out that each herb contains a complex variety of chemical compounds that act synergistically together to create the herbs effects. Not only that but within traditional Chinese medicine, for example, herbs are most often used in formulas containing up to 20 herbs, creating thousands of compounds. Alongside the chemicals, there is also aloe vera and acia berry.

Both have been promoted as natural ‘wonder’ products, for skin healing and anti aging. Aloe vera is well known for its use as a soothing gel for sunburn, but not as well known for its applications in joint disorders such as arthritis. Along with many natural products, its efficacy is not a view endorsed by the mainstream medical community. Acai berry is another modern dietary supplement, sold nowadays as tablets, juices, powders to make drinks or as whole berries. It contains a moderate level of anti-oxidants, which are themselves the source of controversy within the scientific community as to whether or not they play an important role in anti aging and disease prevention. This is not to say there are not benefits from the berries, but again, like aloe vera, their acceptance by the mainstream medical community is still developing as more evidence emerges; at present, it is probably best described as not widespread. As well as these two naturally occurring ingredients, its then back to the ‘science in jar’ approach.

GABA, an inhibitory neurotransmitter produced in the body, tends to be associated with its relaxing effects on the nervous system. This is included to apparently relax the muscles and skin around the eyes. Reservatrol is also included, which is currently being studied for its effects on anti aging and cancer. It exerts eostrogenic effects and occurs naturally in foods, including peanuts, and some dark berries.

Its interesting to note that much of the marketing for this eye cream features more or less the same copy, although in some senses this to be expected. There isn’t reference on the company website to the studies on the product or its ingredients other than a roundup of the results. Dark circles can result from a number of factors, such as poor sleep patterns, diet, stress and to some degree genetic factors. It may be worth tackling modifiable factors as part of healthy approach, as, sometimes skin can be telling us the body isn’t having all of its needs met. In the meantime, its also interesting to note that although there are anti aging eye products at the higher end full of newer compounds, there was still popular praise form real life consumers for those creams retailing for as little as £1.59 (£ around $2). And even then, as we’ve mentioned, theres at least one high profile cosmetics guru who says not to bother at all, just use good quality face products!

Disclaimer: As ever, any serious puffiness or other symptoms around the eyes, or other edema, in fact any new symptom should always be investigated by your doctor.

1. Daily Mirror. (2009). Anti-ageing eye creams: The Celebs Beauty Awards Winners. [online] Available at:
http://www.mirror.co.uk/celebs/celebs-on-sunday/beauty/2009/02/01/anti-ageing-eye-creams-the-celebs-beauty-awards-winners-115875-21083938/

2. Dr. Dahten, A. & Dr. Gruenwald, J. (2009) Anti-Aging Peptides. Inside Cosmeceuticals [online]. Available at;
http://www.insidecosmeceuticals.com/articles/2009/01/anti-aging-peptides.aspx

If you’re using anti aging skin care products, or are thinking of starting to use them, read our non-biased information on how the products  actually work here. Click on our categories on the right for the in depth guides to some  major trends in the anti ageing skin care beauty industry, or read our sumaries below.

Anti ageing skin care is obviously a sizeable industry, with companies lining up to sell anti ageing creams, lotions, treatment devices, pills and supplements, not to mention cosmetic surgery. On the other side of the coin, some skin care experts claim no products can halt the appearance of fine lines and that some products sold actually damage the skin over time.

Women today are under more pressure than ever to stay younger looking longer, like the stars in the magazines – and lets not forget many magazines now routinely airbrush their photos.

Retinol Creams

Retinol (vitamin A) is reported to reduce wrinkle depth. The effect is due to a mild inflammatory response provoked when the vitamin is applied to skin. The skin responds by puffing up, which gives the wrinkles a shallower appearance. Whilst the creams are hugely popular, some controversy exists due to their mode of action (1).

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs or ‘fruit acids’)

These creams have skin effects documented by the American Food and Drug Administration agency (FDA). They note products containing AHAs are used in cosmetics as they cause exfoliation of surface skin. The effect depends on the concentration of AHAs in the products in combination with the effects of other ingredients (2). Again, some controversy exists (1).

‘Botox’ injections

One of the most famous ‘fixes’ for wrinkles and fine lines, this has been the subject of both controversy and praise. The generic name for the substance injected is Botulinum, and the most famous brand name within beauty treatment is “Botox Cosmetic” or “Vistabel” in the UK). It is injected into to muscles to stop the nerve impulse that tells the muscle to relax or contract, paralysing the muscle. The area around the injection is smoothed whilst the rest of the face remains the same. Botox has been declared as legal for use only by suitable qualified professionals in the USA and UK. In some places, its use is regulated by precautionary measures, which professionals must legally follow (3).

Parabens

Another huge controversy currounds the use of parabens in cosmetics – chemicals which help prolong the shelf life of the products and keep them fresh and hygienic. Cancer research scientists have raised terrifying concerns that using parabens may be linked to certain cancers and they have been held responsible for rashes and allergic reactions (4). On the other hand, there are also cancer reserach organisation that refute any link to cancer and the FDA has not ruled parabens harmful yet (5). Read the real story of how the scientiifc ommunit, the beauty industry and consumers are reacting to parabens in countless everyday skin care and beauty products.

Natural skin care treatments

Roundup of benefits of comsetic acupuncture (dubbed the ‘acupuncture face lift’), facial massage, natural products and sun advice. Natural treatments usually claim to be safer, less damaging to skin than the ‘science in a jar’ brigade.

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: NONE of the above advice can be a substitute for medical or professional skin care advice – please only consult qualified general medical and/ or dermatology physicians for serious skin complaints. The information here may reflect manufacturer’s claims and this site cannot be held responsible for such claims made.

RS Brown

References:

1. Mir, G. Anti Ageing and Sun Care. [online] Hertfordshire, UK: Mir. Available at:

http://www.mirskincare.com/anti_ageing_and_sun_care.html

2.       American Food and Drug Administration. (2009). Alpha Hydroxy Acids in Cosmetics. [online] Washington: Department of Health and Human Services. Available at:

http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/SelectedCosmeticIngredients/ucm107940.htm

3. Singer, N. (2009). FDA Orders Warning Label for Botox. [online] New York Times.  Available at:

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/01/business/01botox.html

4. Dabre, P. (2009). Underarm Antiperspirants/Deodorants And Breast Cancer. Breast Cancer Research 2009, 11(Suppl 3):S5. Available at:

http://breast-cancer-research.com/content/11/S3/S5

5. FDA. Parabens. FDA [online]. Available at:

http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/SelectedCosmeticIngredients/ucm128042.htm

Photo Credits

1. http://www.sxc.hu/profile/Egahen

2. http://www.sxc.hu/profile/beer

3. http://www.sxc.hu/profile/petr0

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The famous substance injected is actually a type of Botulinum, a toxin which blocks nerve impulses to muscles to stop relaxing or contracting, in effect, temporarily paralysing the muscle. The effects take an average of 2 to 10 days to become noticeable and commonly wear off in an average 6 months. The treatment is designed to:

• Smoothe out fine lines and wrinkles
• Create a younger looking face
• Create a younger looking neck
• Enhance self confidence

Where and what are the injections commonly given for?

Eyes – (crow’s feet)
Forehead and brow – (frown lines)

Mouth – (vertical lines on the upper lip or down turned mouths)
Neck – (lines and lifting the jowl line)

Since it can be injected into specific areas, it can be used to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles whilst leaving the rest of the facial muscles unaffected.

Botox suspected in media!

This is the source of genius for journalists- if the facial muscles in one area appear smooth and still, it can be salaciously scrutinised as to whether or not the celebrity has ‘had Botox’ done.

Vistabel

The most famous brand names for botulinum within beauty treatment are “Botox Cosmetic” and “Vistabel”.  It isn’t new – in 2009, the procedure had been practised for over 15 years.

The British Association of Cosmetic Doctors claim the ultimate aim of the treatments are to change muscle habits – frowning and squinting – which over time will help reduce more wrinkles and fine lines being formed (1). (And we thought it was just to get the forhead flat in a matter of days).

Some Important Considerations

The British Association of Cosmetic Doctors (1) advise the treatment is not for use:

• In pregnancy
• If breast feeding
• If diagnosed with a neuromuscular disorder

The Association also states your practitioner should be told of all medication patients take (including herbs Gingko Biloba and St John’s Wort).

Potential Side Effects

They cite the main potential Botox side effects as transient and not major, such as temporary headache and  short-lived redness, swelling, bruising or numbing at injection sites; temporary headache and temporary numbness at the injection sites. Less common risks include eyelid drooping (ptosis) and slight puffiness. The Association advises potential patients to discuss this with the doctor as the occurrence rate will vary from doctor to doctor. Finally, for some rare cases, after several weeks resistance to the treatment develops and the effects can no longer be seen.

Controversy – FDA statements

Erupted when American reports emergerged over the reports of 16 children who had tragically died following medical treatment with Botox to treat leg spams (1) . The powerful Food and Drug Administration (FDA) subsequently ruled that from April 2009, all product packaging must contain warnings of severe medical complications in the event of overdose (2).  In those tragic cases, the dosages would be called into question,  given the children’s lower bodyweights kilo for gram administered. The treatment the children recieved is likely to have been at higher dosages than those administered for anti aging skin care cosmetic use in adults. Nonetheless, warning labels must now be carried on every box of “Botox Cosmetic” in the states. Their announcement also stated adverse effects in adults had been reported for ‘approved uses’ of the product and that the toxin may be able to move from the injection site to other areas of the body. The share price for manufacturers dipped. However, in early Augugst 2009, the FDA issued and update stating “No definitive serious adverse event reports of distant spread of toxin effect have been associated with dermatologic use of Botox/Botox Cosmetic at the recommended doses (for frown lines between the eyebrows or severe underarm sweating). As well, no definitive serious adverse event reports of distant spread of toxin effect have been associated with Botox when used at approved doses for eyelid twitches or for crossed eyes.” (3).

Kath Smith

References

1. British Association of Cosmetic Doctors (2009). Muscle relaxing injections (Botox / Botulinum toxin® ) [online]. BACD. Available at:

http://www.cosmeticdoctors.co.uk/botox.asp

2. Food and Drug Administration (2009).  FDA Requires Boxed Warning for All Botulinum Toxin Products. [online] Department of Health and Human Services. Available at:

http://www.fda.gov/NewsEvents/Newsroom/PressAnnouncements/ucm149574.htm

3. Food and Drug Administration (2009).   FDA Gives Update on Botulinum Toxin Safety Warnings; Established Names of Drugs Changed. [online] Department of Health and Human Services. Available at:

http://www.fda.gov/NewsEvents/Newsroom/PressAnnouncements/ucm175013.htm

Photo Credits:

1. http://www.sxc.hu/profile/zeathiel

Rough and ready guide to skin smoothing mechanism

The deeper layers of the dermis (skin) contain collagen, a substance which allows the skin to maintain its shape and elastin, which allows skin its degrees of quite literally, elasticity. Production of elastin stops after puberty, hence some of the effects of ‘age’ on the skin. When the creams are applied, the skin reacts by producing more cells and more collagen, meaning cells seem fuller and rounder. The new cell production moves older cells to the outer layers of the skin where they are exfoliated. This creates the much vaunted effects of the creams, to make skin seem smoo9ther and more radiant (as new cells are less pigmented by UV rays).

Interestingly enough, the concentration of retinol in the creams seems to influence their effect. A fascinating sample by national UK newspaper The Daily Mirror in 2007 (2) found that many manufacturers were shy to disclose exactly how much was in their product, or in what form.

Remember, the mechanism at work is the conversion of the product’s active ingredient to a retinoic acid. Creams which contain retinoic acid itself are classed as pharmaceuticals, because they have significant, demonstrable effects on the skin – effectively making them a medicine. So retinoic acid creams are only allowed to be prescribed – meaning the beauty industry can’t use them in its creams.

Instead, forms such as retinyl palmatate are used instead which convert to much smaller amounts of retinoic acid in the skin.  This has advantages and disadvantages for the consumer. Whilst the effect is less potent than prescribed creams, the products are likely to be better tolerated. The prescribed creams can sometimes lead to adverse reactions such as dry, red & flaky skin in susceptible individuals.

Photosentivity increased & those with sentitive skin:

Retinol over the counter creams leave skin more sensitive to sunlight (3), so sunscreens should always be used even in climates where the sun may seem weak or non-existent some days! Those with sensitive skin are probably best advised to consult a professional before trying it. Pharmaceutical chain Boot’s suggest using their retinol creams by building up the number of times they are used first (2). Always consult a professional qualified doctor for health concerns.

Controversy

Giselle Mir states she qualified as Cosmetic Scientist before founding her own cosmetic company having become disillusioned with misleading cosmetic industry product claims. Mir has publicly stated creams containing retinol essentially irritate the skin, leading to moisture loss from the top layer and premature aging (4).

2

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: NONE of the above advice can be a substitute for medical or professional skin care advice – please only consult qualified general medical and/ or dermatology physicians for serious skin complaints. The information is not sponsored by manufacturers here but may reflect their claims and this site cannot be held responsible for such claims made.

RS Brown

References:

1. Draelos, Z.D.D. (2006). Cosmetic Formulation of Skincare Products: 30 (Cosmetic Science and Technology). Informa Healthcare.

2. Daily Mirror Retinol (2007).Retinol: Is It Really A Miracle Cream?. [online]. Daily Mirror. Available at:

http://www.mirror.co.uk/celebs/celebs-on-sunday/2007/06/10/retinol–is-it-really-a-miracle-cream–98487-19248887/

3. Food and Drug Administration. (2008)  Photocytotoxicity of Retinol and Retinyl Acetate. [online]. FDA. Available at:

http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/ScienceForums/forum03/J-11.htm

4. Mir, G. [undated]. Anti ageing and sun care. [online] Mir. Available at:

http://www.coolessentials.com/anti_ageing_and_sun_care.html

Photo Credits

1. http://www.sxc.hu/profile/Egahen

2. http://www.loosha.nl

Acupuncture – Facial Rejuvenation

The best known acupuncture in the West is that from traditional Chinese Medicine, which had been used as the primary medicine in China for centuries before modern medicine. Practitioners have been quick to realise enhancing the flow of Qi (vital energy) and blood to the face should result in:

• hydration and better skin cell fullness
• better supply of nutrients and oxygen
• reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• reduced appearance of blemishes
• a more youthful appearance

The procedure uses tiny fine needles and obviously must be carried out by a fully trained and specialised practitioner using good hygienic practices. To find an acupuncturist in the UK try the British Acupuncture Council at www.acupuncture.org – then check if the practitioner has had specilaist training in ‘cosmetic acupuncture’ or ‘facial rejuvination acupuncture’.

Facial Massage

Different styles of facial massage have also been practiced for centuries to reduce the formation of wrinkles and give a healthy look to the skin. There are many different styles to choose from, including Holistic (popularly dubbed ‘Swedish’) massage, Ayurvedic massage from India, Thai massage or Shiatsu massage from Japan. Enthusiasts state it can:

Soften skin

Stimulate blood circulation to the face

Remove dead skin

Tighten muscles

Give a healthy glow.

If you can’t afford a professional, good old You Tube has a plethora of videos showing you how to do it yourself – here’s one we liked (although of course, they pretty much all have annoying music):

Natural skin care products

Many products claim to use natural ingredients, capitalising on concerns over prolonged use of chemicals on the skin. However, for some products, this is simply a marketing exercise. They may contain a natural plant extract, for example, but have introduced that to a blend of many other ‘regular’ chemicals to act as preservatives, stabilisers, colourings and perfumes. The ‘natural’ substance in question may also not be organically produced, meaning it has been cultivated using further chemicals. So check for chemicals and organic and away you go.

Finding truly natural products means reading the labels carefully and often accepting a bigger price tag. Another option is to create your own creams and potions – many natural therapists offer classes in making your own cosmetics. One benefit could possibly be avoiding exposure to chemicals creating a ‘chemical backlog’ in the body, the long term effects of which are still not fully studied by science.

Sun sense

Time and time again, skin care experts advise caution around the sun. The damaging effects of UV are well documented. Use of sun creams with properly evaluated factor numbers is essential along with covering up in harsh sunlight (including a sun hat to screen the face).

Julia Smith

Photo Credits

http://www.sxc.hu/profile/beer acupuncture model http://www.sxc.hu/profile/Ayla87 spa scene http://www.sxc.hu/profile/srbichara aloe vera plant